How to Make Wood Waterproof

By learning how to waterproof wood, you can maintain its beauty, strength, and longevity. Waterproofing is beneficial for any wood surface, but it is especially important for decks, outdoor furniture, kitchen and dining tables, kitchen countertops, and any other wood surface that is exposed to moisture. Failure to do so may result in warping, cracking, mold growth, discoloration, and sun damage to your wood components.

Wood can be readily waterproofed using natural oils, synthetic sealants, or stain/sealer. Use a respirator that has been approved by NIOSH or always operate in an area with adequate ventilation, regardless of the approach you take.

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Types of Waterproofers for Wood

Synthetic Sealants

Applying sealants to the wood’s surface causes them to soak in and solidify the cellular structure of the wood. The coating is built up to the top with additional sealant layers, creating an impervious barrier that prevents water intrusion. Since the water is never allowed to come into contact with the wood, it cannot harm it. Satin and high-gloss are examples of sheens.

Varnish: Varnish protects wood from damaging UV rays and provides it with a hard, shell-like finish that doesn’t turn yellow. It’s also ideal for outdoor use.

Lacquer: Although lacquer gives the wood a rich tone, it will eventually turn yellow.

Polyurethane: Due to their ease of use and resistance to yellowing, polyurethane sealants—which come in both water- and oil-based varieties—are widely used in wood treatments.

Natural Oils

Because they penetrate deeply and eventually solidify inside the wood’s cells rather than sitting on top, natural oils are regarded as penetrative sealers. Oils preserve the natural appearance and feel of wood, so you won’t notice a coating. Compared to synthetic sealants, waterproofing oils require up to twice-yearly reapplications.

Linseed oil, tung oil, and Danish oil are examples of natural oils that can be used to waterproof wood. Tung oil and varnishes are combined to make Danish oil. Oils can be applied with a cloth or brushed on. They may typically be touched right away and have a brief re-coat period.

Combinations of Stains and Sealers

Wood sealers and external wood stains are called stain/sealers. Many of them are combined with UV mold and mildew inhibitors because they are designed to protect wood in the most extreme environments. Decks, fences, siding, shingles, outdoor wood furniture, and railings are among the outdoor features that these goods are primarily utilized for.

Sealers and stains can be wiped on or brushed on. Most stain/sealers are rolled on or sprayed using airless paint sprayers because of the bigger scale of the objects they are intended to protect.

When to Waterproof Wood

Before applying any waterproofing compound, the wood must be thoroughly dry. Especially with sealants, the moisture will be trapped in the wood when the coating is applied over wet wood. Use a pin-style moisture meter to test new wood before waterproofing it. Hold off until the moisture content of the wood is 12 percent or less.

How to Use Synthetic Sealants to Waterproof Wood

Use strippers or a series of sandpaper grits to remove paint and other coverings from the wood before you start. Then, to get rid of any remaining issue materials like grease and sanding residue, clean the wood using a vacuum, tack cloth, or a cloth dipped in mineral spirits.

Mix the sealant

In a different container, use a paint stirring stick to carefully swirl the sealant. Avoid slosh or shaking as this will produce bubbles.

Put the sealant on

Use an applicator pad, foam brush, or synthetic bristle brush to apply the sealer to the wood.

Allow the sealant to dry

Before applying the next coat, let the sealant rest for its full re-coat time or more. Water-based polyurethane requires a waiting period of at least two hours before re-coating. The re-coat time for oil-based polyurethane sealer is at least four hours.

Very Light Sand

Use #220 to #320 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the wood if the surface is elevated at the conclusion of the re-coat period. Use a tack cloth to clean.

Put on More Coats and Let Them Dry

Apply additional sealant in two or three coats. No wood grain should be visible as the sealant builds up on the wood. The wood may take up to three days to fully dry and become usable.

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